The Edinburgh Natural History Society were recently kind enough to ask me to guide them on a walk around 38 hectares very close to my home, and my heart.

The biodiverse site on the edge of Linlithgow links heath land, woodland, a large pond (known locally as The Lagoon) and the River Avon.

It was once a sand quarry (until 2000) but has seen a large amount of re-wilding thanks to tree planting and I am part of a campaign to save it from housing developers who are being invited to buy it by the former quarriers. Learn more about that at our Facebook page – Green Battle Linlithgow.

So, with the forecast promising a fairly dry day, a dozen of us set off. After explaining the history of the site – which stretches back nearly 500 years as it was where the Battle of Linlithgow Bridge took place – I then made a plea to find a rare moth, beetle or plant that would stop any house building. It was a plea in hope rather than expectation because what I was really hoping to do was learn more about this place I have a deep affection for.

And right away I was learning; who knew how many insects live on plants, every single plant?

To say the walk was long would be wrong; the route I had chosen is one I have done many times and I would allow around an hour, and I think of myself as a relatively slow walker (it is the best way to see things).

By the standard of my companions however, I was an Olympic sprinter. Such was their dedication to study the plants and animals that the walk was to take close to five hours, but a really good five hours.

The Edinburgh Natural History Society says on its website: “Mosses, birds, insects, flowers, trees, sea-life, fungi, mammals and much more – we’ve got them covered.”

And importantly for me it adds: “Field trips are focussed on what is found on the day and there are generally a number of specialists to share their expertise. There is no fear in asking about the very common such as a daisy, you will also gain knowledge less commonly known.”

My big learning was how much life is on a tree. Those little balls, or bits of minute fungi are galls – and they might contain insects, bacteria, fungi or viruses.

Oak trees were a favourite place to see them – apparently, they can be home to wasps, and the oak apple gall is quite big and does look like an apple, making it easy to spot. But because of the other creatures and organisms it means that “normal” tree is home to more things than Edinburgh Zoo.

Slowing down is a great thing to do whether you are looking for a golden eagle or an aphid. Previously I would look in the middle distance to increase my chances of seeing birds or mammals but on this day I was crouching down and peering under leaves.

More than 100 species were recorded in total, from hoverflies to an unusual sedge (Carex spicata) to birds and mammals. But for me it was spending a long, time in one place that really fascinated me, allowing time to really explore everything, big and small.

I was sent a list of all the birds which had been seen and heard which probably really illustrates just how much nature there is in a relatively small place.

Birds seen: mute swan, mallard, moorhen, buzzard, magpie, carrion crow, jay, wood pigeon and robin

Birds heard: dabchick, chaffinch, willow warbler, blackcap, chiffchaff, treecreeper, wren, blackbird, song thrush, skylark and pheasant

As we made our way back to the promise of coffee at the end of the walk, I realised I had been well and truly educated. Obviously, I knew nature provides a rich, diverse and fascinating bounty to enjoy. But to have my eyes opened to this apparently never-ending array of life had been extraordinary, especially as much of it had been there all the time, it just took a group of enthusiasts to point it out to me.

Unfortunately, none of this actually helps stop housing development if a builder were to buy the land and apply for permission. It seems that some species are more important than others and some biodiversity is more important than others.

We will, however, continue our fight to save Linlithgow’s biggest accessible green and blue space for the benefit of the flora and fauna, as well as the walkers, cyclists, wild swimmers, anglers and nature lovers.

It would be nice to think that an area so biodiverse, which is loved and used by a range of people – both locals and those who travel to it from across the Central Belt – would be deserving of protection from those who come up with rules and regulations. That may be viewed by “pen pushers” and some large companies as a rather incongruous view but I believe it is how many people actually look at the world they live in, even the tiniest parts of it.

The post There is more to a tree than leaves and branches appeared first on Walking Scotland.

The Scottish Government has slashed spending on the environment, again (it always seems that when money is tight the environment suffers first).

This time it is the very important Nature Restoration Fund that has gone. This fund, worth £29.2m, is used by councils and environment agency NatureScot to help local projects to combat the crisis in nature, from tree planting to restoring waterways.

But the Scottish Government has redirected £5m to fund public sector pay offers. They say the money will be returned to fund nature restoration, one day. But it is not a good look for a country already struggling to combat climate change and loss of nature – whether that be reaching targets or giving the environment a greater priority.

It does seem that the only way we in Scotland can protect the environment properly is by doing it ourselves.

I have written before about how myself and a friend are trying to protect an area of great biodiversity very close to my home in Linlithgow. And, how I have realised I am now a (very peaceful) eco-warrior read more here.

The area we are trying to save from housebuilding is 14.3 hectares in size and ranges from a river bank, a lagoon, marsh and heath land, and lots of woodland.

Why are we doing this? Well, to cut a long story short it was once a sand quarry and the owners used grants (funded by public money) to plant loads of trees and do some quite successful rewilding (before that was a popular word).

Then, when the time limit on conditions for the grants was up, they put it up for sale to housebuilders. That is where we come in – we don’t want the land to be built on, we want it left as it is. That means as a thriving haven for nature which is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.

If successful that means we will have helped preserve nature for the future following a period of nature restoration.

But here we also have the problem of Government and priorities. The local council assigned the land as not for housing but when the owners appealed the “experts” at the Scottish Government decreed housebuilding was ok. That sounds like the priority was not nature. Cutting the Nature Restoration Fund is just a continuation of this approach. And the publicly funded grants which helped a sand quarry be restored to nature are also tainted with the same attitude; an initial priority on nature but not long-lasting.

So, we are doing it ourselves, pushing to get wildlife surveys done so we can get some kind of designation such as a Local Nature Reserve – not a priority for the Scottish Government.

If you would like to support us, please go to our Facebook page

The post As the Scottish Government cuts nature funding again, it looks like we have to save the environment ourselves appeared first on Walking Scotland.

I have written before about how and myself and a friend are trying to protect an area of great biodiversity very close to my home in Linlithgow. And, how I have realised am now a (very peaceful) eco-warrior read more here.

The area we are trying to save from housebuilding is 14.3 hectares in size and ranges from a river bank, a lagoon, marsh and heath land, and lots of woodland.

The woodland is home to a variety of wildlife, but exactly what we can’t say with absolutely certainty unless we see it. In come mammal cameras – hi-tech stuff which will take pics day and night when ever some goes past.

The kind folk at MammalWeb! have leant us a couple – but where to put them? Not near paths or where the public might go – some don’t like the idea of being filmed. So, a bit of exploring has been necessary.

When we set up Green Battle Linlithgow (read our Facebook page to find out more) I thought it would mainly be talking to people, trying to persuade them. I have been delighted to realise before you can do that you need to spend a lot of time outside, working out precisely what you are talking about.

So far, we have mapped the area by walking around on obvious paths, permitted and informal. Recently we have had to go into the woods to find somewhere to put the cameras.

My eyes have been opened further to just how wonderful nature is, less than a mile from my house. Once you get to just inside the woods, away from oaths, and look at how far ahead they spread there is a sense of awe.

This is actually a vast space where humans rarely go, usually only to look for a missing dog – and even then, only a short way in. After just a few minutes exploring I have found myself enjoying a genuine feeling of being “in the middle of nowhere”.

Previously this sensation had been in the mountains or the wild open spaces of the Far North of Scotland. Now, I have found it much closer to home.

To know there is this space, busy and bustling (from what we can see on the cameras) when there are no humans around is affirming and makes me think of our space in the world. Yes, we dominate as a species (often in a bad way) but it is good to be reminded that we are far from everywhere, even in the Central Belt of Scotland.

Watch this space to find out about all the animals we have found. But even to see rabbits and foxes mooching about, relaxed and unbothered by humans, is a treat.

The post Where is the middle of nowhere? It seems it is just outside my door appeared first on Walking Scotland.

I have always been concerned about the need to protect the environment and preserve nature for the benefit of plants and wildlife, and sometimes humans.

But I never thought of myself as an eco-warrior, until now.

About 18 months ago my friend and I decided to launch a campaign to save a patch of land where we live in Linlithgow, West Lothian. It had been a sand quarry until 2000 and since then the owners, Cemex, had planted loads of trees which encouraged a good degree of re-wilding. Locals and visitors alike enjoy walking, cycling and swimming in a tree-fringed lagoon, created as a result of the quarrying. There is also the chance for bird-spotting while enjoying the banks of the River Avon.

However, Cemex have the land up for sale to property developers – despite the local council designating the land as not for housing, they were over-ruled by the Scottish Government (it seems the need for luxury housing supersedes nature).

We wanted to do something but didn’t like the idea of being a “proper” campaign, ie “constituted” with secretaries, board members etc. We just wanted to do our bit.

So, with the help of planning experts in the town, and the community council, we have prepared objections to stop any housebuilder bringing in the diggers.

But we are realistic and accept that will only delay the builders as the Scottish Government are usually on their side if they appeal a local decision.

So, we have brought in biodiversity experts from universities, and the council. This means we can collect the data needed to prove that the site is technically worthy of a designation which would stop buildings – a Local Nature Reserve would be great, if we find a great-crested newt, a Site of Special Scientific Interest would be even better.

We have the support of lots of people in the town, using social media to spread the word, and best of all – posters.

Another friend designed posters which it has been my task to put up around the town, inviting folk to download a QR code to an app where they can record all the brilliant things in nature you can see in Kettil’stoun Woodland, by the Avon Lagoon and down to the river. This data helps the scientists do their research, which in turn helps us prove the site deserves to be properly protected.

When your head is fuzzy and full of too much stuff at the end of a day’s work, going and doing something positive is a great antidote. And there is nothing better for me than putting up the posters.

It means I get to walk around the beautiful site, speak to people who stop to ask what I am doing (usually leaving them fully signed up to our aims) and have a feeling that I am “doing my bit”.

For me, being an eco-warrior is not about chaining myself to trees or causing disruption, it is about doing the best I can to help preserve nature for the benefit of all. And posters are the best bit.

Find out more about our campaign at our Facebook page

The post Being an eco-warrior is great – and posters are the best bit appeared first on Walking Scotland.

The coming of the colder months often makes walkers pack their boots and rucksacks away until the longer days return in the spring. But I would argue that is a mistake as now is the time to see a more wild, rugged side of nature.

That does not mean you have to prepare for an outing as if you are in the SAS; there are plenty of lower level routes which can be easily done before the daylight ebbs and, most importantly, are great fun.

So here are five routes to choose from – all appear in my latest book for Luath – Highland Walks

GLENMORE, NR AVIEMORE

A beach above 1,000ft – in winter – and one of the last remaining areas of the ancient Caledonian Pine Forest provide a brilliant stroll with plenty of trees to climb, should you be feeling extra energetic, or have some intrepid children with you.

INSH MARSHES, NR KINGUSSIE

This National Nature Reserve, looked after by the RSPB, is a great for gazing across, spotting birds or admiring the Monadhliath Mountains beyond. At this time of year look out for loads of wintering whooper swans and greylag geese, or hen harriers gathering to roost.

FRANK BRUCE SCULPTURE TRAIL AND THE RIVER FESHIE

Taking in two short, waymarked trails, a magical sculpture trail is followed by a path by a river (be careful, it is fast flowing) and some good picnic spots along the way.

RED SQUIRREL WALK, BLAIR ATHOLL

A great chance to see the cheeky wee animal among delightful, ancient woodland. The River Tilt and an elaborate stone grotto add some grandeur to the route which is great when time is short, or legs are very little.

INCHEWAN BURN AND THE HERMITAGE, BIRNAM

The Inchewan Burn offers a quieter way to reach the Hermitage: a gorge holding a foaming river and some of the tallest trees in Britain. There are also a couple of follies built in honour of the legendary bard Ossian – a hermit’s cave is particularly good for children to explore. A return takes you higher up with views of Highland Perthshire.

The post Five great family walks for autumn and winter appeared first on Walking Scotland.

A version of this article first appeared in The Scots Magazine in July 2022 and a walk here appears in my latest book for Luath – highlandwalks

For just over 14 miles Loch Ericht lies nestled in a great gouge through the Grampian Mountains, created by a huge glacier retreating at the end of the Ice Age.

Other than Munro-baggers and climbers, however, it is largely unfrequented compared to other more “famous” lochs such as Ness, Lomond or Tay. It is though worth a visit for tranquillity amid some of the grandest scenery in the Highlands.

The first thing that strikes you as you reach its north eastern tip near Dalwhinnie is the great, looming mass of Ben Alder. This isolated mountain was used by Robert Louis Stevenson in Kidnapped when David Balfour and Alan Breck Stewart hid there. In real life it is said Bonnie Prince Charlie also used it as a place of refuge following the Battle of Culloden – as with the characters in the novel he was believed to have been helped by clan chief Cluny MacPherson.

Ben Alder is usually climbed in a two-day expedition involving much exertion. However, an exploration of the loch shore via a well-made track along the north west side can be as short or long as you like and with mountain bikes can be made longer. (But always remember that you have to come back as far as you have ventured.)

A good aim is the five miles to Ben Alder Lodge (so, ten miles there and back). But much closer – in fact it is only about an hour there and back on foot – is The Shieling, a kind of gatehouse to the Ben Alder Estate and a perfect destination for a family wander. Just above it is a picnic table at a great viewpoint which makes a brilliant stopping point for lunch. And the forest behind is ideal for a game of hide and seek, just don’t go too far uphill and get so hidden you become lost!

Note that the level crossing near Dalwhinnie Railway Station – typically used to access the loch – has been closed by Network Rail until further notice. A diversion is in place beginning from a track which starts along the road, next to the village’s petrol station. This leads down to the loch and bears right to reach the shore.

The post HIDDEN SCOTLAND – Loch Ericht, nr Dalwhinnie appeared first on Walking Scotland.

A version of this article appeared in The Scots Magazine in May 2022

Scotland has an amazing coastline and some of the most stunning beaches in the world – yes, the world. It might not be as warm as some places people jet off to but staycationers and visitors are treated to some wonderful stretches of sand, backed by rugged landscapes.

As a result, some places can get busy, especially in holiday periods, so it is always good to know of an out of the way place where the scenery is top class but the number of people is low. And remember, a beach in winter is a wonderful place when high winds and rough seas allow the wilder side of nature to be observed.

Lunan Bay on the coast of Angus is just such a place. It is a huge expanse of sand stretching two miles between low cliffs, backed by sand dunes and the ruins of a 12th century castle which was built to repel Norsemen. The invaders landed here in 1010 and went on to sack Dundee which led to the fortification being built for King William (the Lion) of Scotland. Things are more tranquil now but there are still plenty of activities to enjoy.

As with any beach, it is perfect for a visit with a bucket and spade and a bit of a paddle. Because of its size, there will always be a quiet spot to build the best sandcastle ever seen.

Others may prefer to explore the little caves at the base of rocky cliffs at the north end (take care to avoid an incoming tide). Another activity is to hunt for semi-precious stones and agates which are found around here, especially after a storm has blown away the top layer of sand.

Then there is the wildlife. Gannets, terns, mergansers, long-tailed ducks, scoters, red-throated divers, cormorants, and shags can all be seen here while in the water you may spot a bottlenose dolphin or a porpoise. Also in the water are surfers – even in winter they brave the icy temperatures to catch a good wave.

So if you are looking for a beautiful, quiet beach with plenty to keep you occupied, give Lunan Bay a go.

The post HIDDEN SCOTLAND – Lunan Bay, Angus appeared first on Walking Scotland.

A version of this article appeared in The Scots Magazine in March 2022

After more than a year of waiting for the right conditions, Sir Chris Bonington and his partner Ian Clough embarked on the toughest challenge they had ever attempted.

They were to become the first Brits to complete the perilous route of more than 5,000ft up the North Wall of the Eiger.

Bivouacking overnight on the face, they eventually made it to the summit of a mountain Bonington describes in his book Ascent as “an amphitheatre that focuses all your fears”.

But with the laidback attitude found in many elite climbers he recalls the events of 60 years ago: “It was very much a snatched opportunity. I had made several earlier attempts but for one reason or another had turned back.

“This time the conditions seemed perfect and so at the end of the season I persuaded Ian Clough to go with me and it all went amazingly smoothly.

“We had been climbing all that summer and as a result I was physically fit and acclimatised.”

The Eiger has been called the “Killer Mountain” and two other climbers died on the same day. And, Ian Clough, a Yorkshireman, was to die in 1970 on an expedition to the South Face of Annapurna in the Himalayas. It was led by Bonington and he would later describe him as “the kindest and most selfless partner I ever had”.

But it was not the biggest event of that year for Sir Chris – he met his wife Wendy at a 12th night party and they married in the May, he then gave up a lucrative job with Unilever to pursue his love of climbing.

His career in mountaineering opened up after the climb up the North Wall of the Eiger; Bonington says it was the largest media coverage he ever received for a climb, including the successful expedition to Everest which he led in 1975 when Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Brits to reach that summit.

His love of climbing began when he was 16 and still at school in London. In those early years he hitchhiked all the way Scotland, eager to find rock faces, crags and boulders to test out his growing skills, meeting for the first time Hamish MacInnes, who was rather suspicious of the young lad from Hampstead. They would however go on to team up on climbs across the world, as well as pioneering some routes on Buachaille Etive Mor above Glencoe

It wasn’t long before he looked further afield and started to explore the Alps. And by 1960, now commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment, he was in the Himalayas, a member of the Joint British-Indian-Nepalese Services Expedition and part of team which made the first ascent of Annapurna II (7,937 metres).

The 1975 Everest expedition was one of the most notable achievements of Bonington’s life, even though he didn’t make the top because storms had left the mountain prone to avalanche when his summit team was due to climb up. The worldwide coverage did, however, cement his place among the climbing greats, alongside Dougal Haston from Currie near Edinburgh and Doug Scott from Nottingham. Bonington had climbed with Haston before, notably on an expedition up the South Face of Annapurna in 1970, when Ian Clough lost his life. After Haston died in a ski-ing accident in 1977 Bonington said he acutely felt his loss “as a good friend and like-minded climbing partner”.

Although he hadn’t managed to reach the summit he would return to Everest with a Norwegian expedition in 1985 and stand on top of the world.

His love of Scotland continued from those early years and he has climbed across the country. He says: “It’s where I do a lot of my climbing for the sheer fun and thrill of it, and because the Highlands have such scale and beauty with their sea lochs and variety of mountains.”

But he is perhaps best known for making the first ascent of the of The Old Man of Hoy, off Orkney, in 1966 with Scottish climber Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie. He describes it as “the most remarkable sea stack in the British Isles”.

He returned the following year with a large team of climbers for a live television broadcast, with the filming led by Hamish MacInnes – his climbing by now had made him a star of the times.

But maybe the most difficult time he had was when he returned once more to celebrate his 80th birthday – again with a TV film crew. He describes it as “challenging”, adding: “I had hoped to lead at least one pitch but in the event was very glad to have a top rope all the way up. I don’t think I shall be tempted to try again for my 90th!”

Although he found that climb, and others, difficult, he is not someone who worries about fear too much. He says: “If there is a crisis whilst climbing you are too busy getting out of it and staying alive to be scared because it’s important that you stay cool. Fear is a very healthy response and feeling because it reminds you that it is dangerous and therefore important to stay cool.”

Bonington is still climbing at the age of 87 (he is 88 in August 2022). Much of his time is also taken up with charity work, including Community Action Nepal, which helps mountain communities in the country, and the MND Association. His first wife, Wendy, died of motor neurone disease in 2014 and he says the charity gave her “a huge amount of support”.

EIGER FACTFILE

The Eiger, meaning ogre, is a 3,967-metre peak in the Swiss Alps.

The first people to reach the top were Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington. IN August 1858 they went up the western side.

The North Wall was seen as the “last problem” of the Alps and was first climbed by an Austrian-German team in 1938.

It is one of the most dangerous mountains in Europe and has claimed the loves of more than 60 climbers.

Climbing on the North Wall is normally done in the morning during summer as rockfalls increase in the afternoon when the air temperature rises.

A German nickname for the North Wall is Mordwand, “murder wall”.

The Jungfrau Railway uses a tunnel through the mountain, complete with viewing-windows carved into the rock face.

Legendary Scottish climber Hamish MacInnes worked as an advisor and safety officer for the 1975 blockbuster movie the Eiger Sanction, starring Clint Eastwood.

The post Sir Chris Bonington on one of THE best climbs appeared first on Walking Scotland.

A version of this article appeared in The Scots Magazine in April 2022

The Otter Pool has to be one of the best out of the way swimming, paddling and photogenic spots in Scotland. It is also a great place for a picnic, games on the grassy banks and a stopping point on a walk or cycle through this backwater amid the Galloway hills.

Skye’s Fairy Pools are rightly considered a good place to head on a sunny day but this is no second best alternative. In the spring and summer months you can reach it by car along the 10-mile Raiders’ Road Forest Drive and at anytime on foot or mountain bike.

The first thing that hits you when you stop there is the quiet – you really are in the back of beyond. Although there is a car park (and toilets in the summer) even reaching it by vehicle is an adventure on unsurfaced tracks.

Forestry and Land Scotland have taken a non-intrusive approach to looking after it. A couple of wooden picnic tables are all that you will see before reaching a broad swathe of grass, some clumps of heather and, on the edge of the forest, the bubbling River Dee.

It is almost as if the stretch of water has been designed with maximum enjoyment for all ages in mind. Little ones can splodge in the shallows in their wellies, while older ones may venture further onto rocks which stretch across the river like stepping stones.

Below these rocks are a series of small rapids which at first sight look fearsome but are actually perfect for sliding down (a wetsuit is handy for some cushioning here). Beyond the rapids the river stretches on and is good for swimming while upstream is a slow-moving stretch, ideal on a sunny day for splashing about or simply to lie back and float, gazing up at the sky.

For those walking or cycling to this point, don’t think of the The Otter Pool as a quick place to stop, make time to explore it and take a towel because you will want to get at least your feet wet.

The post HIDDEN SCOTLAND – The Otter Pool, Galloway Forest Park appeared first on Walking Scotland.

A version of this article appeared in The Scots Magazine in June 2022

Scotland’s glens are famed across the world; from the drama of Glen Coe to the tranquillity of Glen Trool, the majesty of Glen Lyon to the brooding atmosphere of the Great Glen.

But tucked away in the far north west reaches of the mainland is an often forgotten glen steeped in history, heritage and scenery. Dunbeath Strath in Caithness is scarcely visited compared to its cousins further south but it is undoubtedly one of the best in the country.

Neil Gunn was born in Dunbeath in 1891 and his masterpiece Highland River is set along the 12 miles of Dunbeath Water – a sculpture above the harbour marks him and the work. The novel follow’s the route to the river’s source – Loch Braigh na h-Aibhne, below the remote, conical summit of Morven. It is a tough undertaking as much of it is pathless, although it does take you into a wilderness of moorland and mountain which is usually home only to eagles and deer.

Much more manageable is the three or four miles to the edge of the seemingly endless hinterland.

Leaving the harbour and village behind, you pass an Iron Age broch, dating back 2,500 years – it is also home to an impressive show of wild primroses in spring. Then comes Prisoner’s Leap Gorge where it is said Ian McCormack Gunn leapt to his freedom after being captured by the Keiths. Windswept moorland follows with the ruins of Loedebest, a village left deserted by the Clearances. Eventually, you reach the white-walled cemetery, Tutnaguail, standing isolated and looking similar to those seen in a Clint Eastwood Western film.

Further up the strath the going gets harder underfoot but it is worth exploring a little further to get a taste for remote, trackless country. This is truly a place which is “in the middle of nowhere” and somewhere to stop and admire the desolate beauty of this part of Scotland.

You may not see many people on an exploration of this glen (or strath) but you will certainly experience some wonderful scenery and history. And you are almost certain to get a picnic spot (of which there are numerous ones along the way) all to yourself.

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